Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Where Empires Collide

Vienna. Rome. Moscow. Istanbul. Athens. In high school you learn the "great cities" version of history, and it's these cities that were the seats of empires. But the Balkans are literally on the fault line of history - and are all the more fascinating for it.


AHR and I spent 2 weeks there, wandering between Croatia (which could have passed for Italy but for the palpably Slavic culture of the people) and Bosnia (where a mere 300 yards can carry you from an Ottoman market deep into Hapsburg Vienna). In Sarajevo, we practically stumbled on the bridge (below) where Archduke Ferdinand was shot, sparking the start of WWI.

It used to seem so random that the first World War started in some obscure corner of Europe. But of course it did -- this is where Empires collide.

Well that, and there's a serious (but related) dose of local ethnic tension.

At the same time, it's a land of amazing hospitality, breathtaking scenery and fantastic food. Some advice: When in Bosnia, eat burek. And when in Sarajevo, order goulash and homemade bread at Dveri.

1 comment:

------------------------------------------ said...

I'm so happy that you liked Sarajevo. And thrilled that you found Dveri; I had forgotten about that place, but it was one of my favorites and a regular when we wanted a nice meal.